Columbus Ohio real estate

For at least the last twenty years or so, the most common way of insulating attics in Minnesota is to use loose-fill insulation - either cellulose or fiberglass.  This is a huge improvement over fiberglass batts, because batts are nearly impossible to install in attics and they cost more money.  Despite the decline of fiberglass batts in attics, I still find a small section of fiberglass batting used above the attic access panel at about 90% of the homes that I inspect, even on new construction.

For the fiberglass batt to insulate the scuttle hole effectively, it needs to fill the entire space and be in significant contact with all four sides of the wood 'dam' that is built inside the attic for the access panel to slide up through.  When the insulation piece is too small, it doesn't touch all four sides and allows for heat loss.  When the insulation piece is properly sized, it works fine, but the insulation won't drop in to place inside the dam.  It needs to be pushed in to place.  To do this, the insulation needs to be installed from the attic side.  

How is the homeowner (or home inspector) supposed to be able to do that?  It's impossible unless there are two ways of getting in to the attic.  When there are two ways of getting in to the attic, it's usually because the average person can't climb from one section of the attic to the other.  I'm an above-average climber, and I've climbed through plenty enough attics to see what those fiberglass batts look like on the other side.  They're almost never right.  The photos below show a few recent examples; either the batts aren't pushed down inside the dams, they're too large, or they're too small.

When the fiberglass insulation above the attic access panel doesn't get installed properly, the home experiences unnecessary heat loss at this location, which you can clearly see in the infrared image below.  This isn't an unusual installation; this is typical of attic access panels that are insulated with fiberglass batts that are too large.

If you want to know how well your attic access panel is insulated, climb up in to your attic and have another person drop the attic access panel down behind you.  You'll probably see something very similar to the photos above.

I've found two solutions that seem to work pretty well.  One is to have the panel re-insulated with something other than a tight-fitting fiberglass batt, such as rigid foam boards that fit the attic scuttle hole perfectly.  Easier said than done, but it's probably the best method I've seen.  In a perfect world, it would fit so tight that the panel had to be pulled down in place with two handles attached to the cover... but most people wouldn't go for that look.  I took a shot at building my own by cutting four pieces of rigid foam to size, gluing them together with 3M spray adhesive, and then duct taping them together for good measure.  It looked about as pathetic as my home-made recessed light cover, but too bad.  I'm the only one who will ever know.

Another solution I've found is to use a fiberglass batt that's slightly too large, and attach it to two or three pieces drywall that covers the scuttle hole.  This makes the cover so heavy that it's quite a chore to push it up in to the attic, but it also helps the panel fall down in to place, pulling the insulation down with itself.

The other common issue I find with attic access panels is that they're not airtight.   This is much more of an issue with old houses than it is with new houses, but I still find my share of new construction homes with poorly sealed panels, such as the one shown below at a new construction inspection in Farmington.

One way to make the attic access panel airtight would be to caulk it shut, but I hesitate to do that because the attic is supposed to be accessible.  A much better option would be to install weatherstripping around the panel, but if the access panel is located in a commonly used hallway, I can understand why homeowners wouldn't want to do this: it's ugly.  I rarely find weatherstripping installed unless the access panel is located in an out-of-the-way closet.

If you want to know if your access panel is airtight, just waft some smoke around the panel edges.  If it's leaking, you'll see air movement here.  While air leaks at the lower levels create cold drafts, you usually don't feel them at the attic access panel because it's air leaving the house, not coming back in.

If you have a great attic access panel insulation method that doesn't look hideous and you'd like to share it, please send it to me.  I'd be happy to share it with others.

Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections - Email - Minneapolis Home Inspector

        

As we approach the holiday season, the words “no returns” can cause the holiday shopper more than a bit of trepidation. At this time of year, the gift receipt has almost as much significance as the gift itself. To buy or not to buy, becomes the question.

No returns when it comes to HVAC systems is never an option. With any forced air heating and cooling systems it is necessary to have return ducts back to furnace and or air handling unit. It is really a very simple concept, when forcing air into a confined space, in order for the air to move, it must have a way out as well as a way in. In other words recirculation.

The placement of all duct work is fairly well defined. With return air ducts, they can not be in installed for example, in closets or furnace rooms.

While inspecting a new home the other day, it appeared the third floor was originally a walk up attic, now finished. It had been made into one large room with what looked like a closet along one wall. This closet was also the furnace room. Entering the room and looking about a noticed a duct in the ceiling.

I immediately found that odd and stuck head back into the finished room, scanning the walls and ceiling. I kicked the unit on and checked the duct. Just as I thought, a return duct. Never mind that the location of the duct is against building codes, it’s also against good sense and best practice. With the door closed, the return air will have difficultly flowing under the small space at the bottom. Might explain why the closet door was wide open when I entered the room.

No returns when holiday shopping can be a temporary pain, but no returns on your HVAC system can make living in the home uncomfortable for a long time.

 

James Quarello
Connecticut Home Inspector
2010 - 2011 SNEC-ASHI President
NRSB #8SS0022
JRV Home Inspection Services, LLC

To find out more about our other high tech services we offer in Connecticut click on the links below:

Learn more about our Infrared Thermal Imaging & Diagnostics services.

Learn more about our home energy audits, the Home Energy Tune uP®.

Serving the Connecticut Counties of Fairfield, Hartford, Middlesex, New Haven, Southern Litchfield and Western New London.

 

7 Easy Ways to Make your Home Energy Efficient

 

The winter is upon us here in Collegeville, PA and I've found my home inspection clients asking more questions about making their new homes more energy efficient.

There are many ways to do this and I picked a handful of things you can do right now that won't cost you a lot of money or time.  Here is a table I put together of
7 Easy Ways to Make you Home Energy Efficient followed by a brief description of each item:

 

 

	Cost	Cost Savings
Outlet Gaskets	~$30	~$80 per year*
Digital Cycling Unit	$0	$180 per year
Weather-stripping	~$50	~$150 per year*
Programmable thermostat	~$100	~$180 per year*
Lower thermostat at Water Heater	$0	~$50 per year*
Insulate & Seal Ducts	~$50	~$50 per year*
Service heating/cooling system	~$200	~$250 per year*

*Cost savings calculated on a 1800 sq ft home and depends on the home's current insulation values and comfort level of occupants.

 

Outlet gaskets:  The outlet gaskets should be installed on every outlet and switch on an exterior wall.  This will help reduce one of the largest areas of draft.  The gaskets can significantly reduce draft in older houses.  You can find these at your local hardware store.

Digital cycling unit:  This is installed by the electric company usually at no cost to the home owner.  PECO offers a $30 credit every month during cooling season.  The cycling unit will shut off the condensing unit (outdoor unit) for 15 minutes every half hour during “peak” summer afternoons.  The conservation event usually happens on hot, weekday afternoons and will last about 4-6 hours.

 

Weather-stripping:  Weather-stripping can be added at any door or window opening where there is a gap that can cause a draft.  One of the most overlooked openings is the attic hatch/door.  You can weather-strip and insulate the door or purchase a pre-made attic cover. Weather-stripping can significantly reduce draft in older homes. 

Programmable thermostat:  A programmable thermostat is usually easy to install and can save money by lowering (or raising) the temperature on the thermostat when no one is home.  It's a common misperception that it takes more energy to heat up (or cool off) a house than it takes to keep it warm all the time.

Lower water heater thermostat:  The thermostat at the water heater should be set no higher than 120 degrees.  If the thermostat needs to be set higher for comfort, the water heater may be too small or nearing the end of its expected lifespan.

Insulate Ducts:  Look for holes, tears, and other signs of leaking ducts and seal them using mastic or metal (foil) tape (never use 'duct tape,' as it is not long-lasting). Insulate all the ducts you can access (such as those in the attic, crawlspace, unfinished basement, or garage).

Service heating/cooling system:  Dirt and neglect are the top causes of heating and cooling system inefficiency and failure. It’s important to change your system’s air filter regularly and have routine maintenance performed by a qualified technician. 

 

David Artigliere with ARTI Home Inspections LLC is a home inspector in and around Norristown, Pottstown, Reading & Surrounding. 

He offers home inspections 7 days a week and can be contacted by calling (610) 220-1907 or visiting www.artihomeinspections.com

 

One item I’m sure no one is thinking about right now here in Connecticut after the horrific Nor’easter blew through is Air Conditioning. That is unless you’re a home inspector. The unfortunate consequence of cold weather is air conditioners can not be run to test their function. The inspector must perform only a visual assessment of the equipment. Occasionally that is more than enough to spot problems.

Climbing into an attic during a recent inspection I found the A/C systems air handling unit. Giving it the once over quickly I noted a large of amount of cloth “duct tape” on the end of the unit.

Gray cloth duct tape is not actually duct tape at all. Real professionals never use it, because the adhesive is weak and deteriorates quickly, especially when it gets warm.

When I see cheap duct, the first thing I think is, Uncle Bob has been here fixin’ things…again! The end of the unit where the tape had been oh so professionally applied is the return duct. The return is very important. This is where the air from the house is sucked back through the air handler over the cooling coils and back out to the house. With air conditioning the system basically works off the return. The heat from the air is removed by the coils and sent out to the exterior by the coolant.

As everyone who has every set foot in an attic in July knows, it’s hotter than Hades up there. So what do you suppose happen to the duct tape?

Yes, it came unglued, not unlike the inspector when he finds a repair like this one. The other and bigger issue is the air handler is now sucking return air not from the house, but the hot attic. The A/C system for all intents and purposes is swimming against the tide. A portion of the cooler air from the home coming through the return is being lost to the attic, while the hot air in the attic is pulled across the coils into the house.

The system efficiency has hit the basement, while the homeowner’s electric bill has undoubtedly gone to the stratosphere.

One other interesting discovery was the air filter inside the return vent in the hall. It was about four inches too small. If this had been the way the system had been filtered for sometime, couple that with the unfiltered air house the coils in the air handler must be clogged with a lot of dirt, once again a hit to the efficiency.

The best part was an estimate for a new system from an HVAC company shown to me during the inspection. It said the system was too small and did not provide adequate cooling. I think the latter part is true at least.

I think the lesson here is before thinking something needs to be replaced because it appears to be functioning poorly, you may want to have an unbiased party take a look at the system. 

 

James Quarello
Connecticut Home Inspector
2010 - 2011 SNEC-ASHI President
NRSB #8SS0022
JRV Home Inspection Services, LLC

To find out more about our other high tech services we offer in Connecticut click on the links below:

Learn more about our Infrared Thermal Imaging & Diagnostics services.

Learn more about our home energy audits, the Home Energy Tune uP®.

Serving the Connecticut Counties of Fairfield, Hartford, Middlesex, New Haven, Southern Litchfield and Western New London.

 

Replace Your Thermostat with Nest Learning Thermostat

Nest Labs just announced their new learning thermostat yesterday which seems really really intriguing.  The story may be more interesting than the actual product, but let's see.  My former company was a cleantech company called Bio Architecture Lab which is converting low cost seaweeds (macroalgae) into biofuels and renewable chemicals.  Change the world technology, but it will take a long time and a significant amount of capital to get to market.  They are making a great run at the opportunity with large partnerships in Chile, Norway, and with DuPont in the US.  So, I have a lot of interest in clean technology and global warming.  (By the way, due to the global economic meltdown, global warming and clean technology have definitely gotten sidelined as people are more focused on work and the media is most focused on Occupy Wall Street and wealth inequality).

Yesterday, the father of Apple's iPod and iPhone Tony Fadell announced his new company called Nest Labs which wants you to replace your thermostat with the Nest Learning Thermostat.  So why is one of the most sought after technologists in the world focused on a product to replace your thermostat?

In Tony Fadell's words:

• He had an amazing run with Apple and no other job creating mobile phones could ever compare to Apple.
• He wanted to do something meaningful and reducing global warming / climate change was a big problem to solve.
• 50% of a home's energy consumption is controlled by the thermostat.
• The thermostat is not a loved object.  It is built for the contractor and not the consumer or home owner.

So, over the past two years, Tony Fadell and his team have created a LEARNING THERMOSTAT with algorithms to automatically manage the climate in a home, save money and energy.  The video, articles and pictures are extremely compelling.  Links to some of the articles, videos, and pictures below.

Nest Labs - Maker of the Nest Learning Thermostat

Wired Magazine Article on Nest Learning Thermostat

Nest Labs Video Tour

NYTimes Article on Nest Labs

BUT the catch is that it costs $250 to replace your thermostat with the Nest Learning Thermostat, which is very very expensive compared to your standard Carrier or Honeywell thermostat.  That's 5-10x more expensive than the average programmable thermostat.

SO, would you pay $250 to replace your thermostat with the Nest Learning Thermostat?

 

 

 

In the course of performing home inspections, one happens across shall I say, some interesting methods of accomplishing a result. Often not the best approach, but it can be said to get the job done. What I often guardedly admire is the creativity of the person. They often have a sense of what is needed, but not enough knowledge or skills to quite accomplish the task correctly and more importantly safely. As we inspectors are wont to say;

They have enough knowledge to be dangerous.

I discovered a handy homeowner (Uncle Bob perhaps) solution during a recent inspection that showed an understanding of a problem. Unfortunately the resolution was not quite right, but undeniably unique.

The oil fired furnace for the home was located in a small room off the kitchen. This room also contained the water heater and laundry. The room of course has a door. Closing this door creates a problem for the furnace functioning efficiently.

The size of the room is too small to provide enough combustion make up air for the furnace or specifically the burner. This is a simple concept that often eludes many installers and even more homeowners. When something is burned it requires air (oxygen) to fuel the combustion process. Not enough air, the combustion is inefficient and incomplete. I can not tell you how often I find furnaces crammed into closets or surrounded by stored items, in effect choking the off the air supply.

This homeowner understood this problem or he was told about it. So instead of hiring a qualified HVAC contractor to install a means for bringing in combustion make up air, he did it himself.

Mr. Handy Homeowner decided to drill a hole in the furnace jacket above the oil burner continuing on through the side of his home direct to the exterior. He then inserted a PVC pipe and then “sealed” the hole with a rag. I guess you could call it crude, but effective.

One has to admire the creativity of some homeowners, but not for too long or too much.

 

James Quarello
Connecticut Home Inspector
2010 - 2011 SNEC-ASHI President
NRSB #8SS0022
JRV Home Inspection Services, LLC

To find out more about our other high tech services we offer in Connecticut click on the links below:

Learn more about our Infrared Thermal Imaging & Diagnostics services.

Learn more about our home energy audits, the Home Energy Tune uP®.

Serving the Connecticut Counties of Fairfield, Hartford, Middlesex, New Haven, Southern Litchfield and Western New London.

 

It's that time of year again.  Fall and winter provide excellent opportunities to do some sprucing up and getting ready for the season ahead.  So, once again, it's time for: 

Jay's List!

Specifically, the Fall/Winter Seasonal Chores List.  You have to do it anyway, so this gift is for you.

It seems like every year I will be driving home and hear on the news that it will get below freezing during the night.  That's the time I usually realize I have not gotten ready for fall or winter.  My hose bibs immediately spring to mind.  (It's good to be on top of things like I am...) 

Note:  Obviously this is long past true for some of the country.  My list is pretty complete, though likely not totally complete.  No one ever knows everything.  But, I thought it would be helpful to share some of it with you.

* Winterize the exterior hose bib valves. Turn off the interior valves, open the exterior bibs and loose the little cap beside the interior valve to break the vacuum and let water drain out.

* Test your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.  Replace the batteries if that has not been done in a while.  If your detectors are older than 10 years of age, replace the entire mechanism.

* Spruce up any disastrous exterior caulking. Be sure to use the right caulk for the right application! Caulking is the cheapest and easiest energy saver.  Be sure the caulk is fully dried before it freezes at night.  Never paint or apply caulk if the temperature is less than 50F.

* Boilers - check the safety relief valve.

* Steam Boilers - Each month, flush the blow-off valve on the low-water cutoff; test the water feed valves.

* Furnace - replace (or clean) the filters monthly; oil the fans or circulators; manipulate the duct dampers or register covers to divert more hot air downstairs and less up (do not close off air completely to any level or room). Oil furnaces should be checked for back puffing. Ideally, all furnaces should have annual maintenance examinations by a licensed professional.

* Clean moss on the roof - be sure to use something that does not kill the grass or garden shrubbery. I understand from northwesterners that after cleaning a pile of laundry detergent along the ridge of the roof will wash down during rains and help clean completely.

* Clean gutters of debris. If your house is near many trees, solid gutter covers are highly recommended.  This is important not only in the fall, but the spring too.

* Place sticky cricket catchers in the basement and garage.

* Septic system - pump the tank if it is time. If you have two fields this is a good time to divert to the unused field.

* Check your chimneys for creosote and sweep if needed.  Repair any damage.

* Improve foundation drainage as necessary.

* Test GFI outlets. 

* Test AFCI breakers.

* Check the garage door reversing mechanism.  Put your foot through the photo eye plane and see if the door reverses.

* Gas water heater - drain some water from the bottom valve to remove sediment.

* Open crawl space vents.

* Dryer - clean behind the dryer and the dryer mechanism itself, clean what is possible of the vent inside the wall and check the vent flap outside for lint.

* Private water system - pump air into the tank if the pump turns on often.

* Sprinkler system - if you cannot do it yourself, have your maintenance company by to blow the water out of the lines, disconnecting things where necessary, so that only air is left inside.  You don't want your tubing breaking underground over the winter.

* Kitchen - clean dust from behind or under the fridge; clean the range hood fan and clean or replace vent screens; clean disposal (vinegar and baking soda work well, followed by lemon peels).

This is by no means a complete list, but it will serve you well. It works for me!

Preparation is everything. As a guy associated with the Boy Scouts for a long time, I can tell you it is good to "be prepared...!" That may be one of the best mottoes ever written.

My recommendation: Be regular and have foresight! Home maintenance, in the long run, costs about 1% of the value of a home per year. Pay attention to the small stuff, and the big things will take care of themselves.

Jay Markanich Real Estate Inspections, LLC

Based in Bristow, serving all of Northern Virginia

www.jaymarinspect.com